[, Music, ], hmm [, Music, ], ah good god, who is it not another? One of those jurassic park fan boys, mountbatten residents, hugo here hugo. What have you done with my santos santos, who never heard of him my cartier santos yesterday? It was here in its box and now it’s gone and guess what you’re not here, either? Oh the cartier.
Of course i borrowed it. You see, i have this fabulous promo event for the park uh this evening. The the park jurassic park, darling with stephen and the whole gang jeff will be there. You know how he likes his tanks, so i thought i’d wear my i i mean your santos hugo bring back my watch immediately. Okay, what’s that, i can’t hear you old sport.
[ Applause, ], you go hello, you go, i mean it. There’S a storm darling. I can’t hear you mustache tool. Pip hugo, i’m not messing around bring back my watch, hello, hello, hugo [, Music, ], okay, hi guys and welcome to the show as a wash enthusiast. It’S clear: the vintage market has changed irrevocably it’s harder than ever before, to find a genuine all original seiko at a bargain price that ticks all the boxes on the used market, especially as seiko themselves, keep raising their own prices at retail.
So today i start a series of videos looking at different brands, hopefully over the coming months and what bargains you can find under 500. Hopefully there will be many more videos like this, so please give a like if you’d like, to see further explorations of this particular price point and subject so recently, i acquired my dream: cartier santos, the moon phase, which, after a year of hunting, i finally found the Right model, but what about a moon phase, not in the thousands but at a more affordable level? Well, i accepted this challenge. So, let’s see what i found now before i get into it i’ll do a quick wristwatch check! Yes, i’m wearing the explorer!
I haven’t worn. This combo for donkey’s years this is my valor strap i designed for us candy, watch club and out of all the collaborations, i’ve done with them. This is by far my favorite. It’S the most special, the historic importance of the colors, the name, the meaning behind the design and also it was the first design i did for them so yeah and, as you can tell the colors match. So so, i’m very happy now, before we unveil this uh little couple of order, this piccolo media from seiko.
I want to discuss why historically, why i’ve identified this particular sweet spot in the used market, because i picked up this incredible watch for only 250. Let’S uh explore the history why this is perhaps one of the golden ages of seika following the court’s crisis that seiko had set in motion in 1969 that we all know decimated the previously dominant swiss watchmakers by the 1980s courts and digital watchers were all the rage. Even with the well-moneyed yuppies, with both of these forms of timekeeping technology going through something of a renaissance, the leaders and top three innovators were seiko, cassio and citizen. However, the swiss counter-attacked by diversifying into more aspirational luxury, as well as offering their own higher end quartz alternatives, primarily in order to compete, but, more importantly, to survive as previously documented extensively on this channel. The rolex oyster, quartz, amiga, constellation chronometers, piaget, ultra thin, polos and concord watches were all prime examples of this.
For a few big swiss names, the strategy of making traditional higher end watchmaking more desirable started to actually work. A prime example of this is the adamopigay quantiem perpetual automatic, famously worn by perhaps the best example of the type of customer it was aimed at. We are, of course, talking about the character frank cross played so memorably and wonderfully by bill murray in the 1988 movie. Scrooged, it was a clever poignant and hilarious reinterpretation of the classic dickens christmas tale. We have spent 40 million dollars on a live tv show you guys have got an ad with america’s favorite old fart.
Now i have to kill all of you now. What makes this a perfect bit of watchcast thing is what two reasons. Firstly, the character of frank cross is the ultimate personification of ruthless 80s, wealthy yuppie in new york and then. Secondly, the watch itself was actually bill, murray’s own watch. Now, typically, he wears a datejust.
So did he choose this watch for that role, i’d like to think so. It’S still a bit of a mystery, but it certainly wasn’t product placement and it adds an extra level of authenticity to a cinematic watch icon which few ever achieve. This was by no means a new watch. Adama piguet had introduced this revolutionary watch a decade before in 1978, but by the 80s it still held the title of the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar. This was achieved by effectively adapting the renowned calibre 2120, a jlc based movement launched in 1967 and finally ending production in the early 1990s.
So this was really um an unplanned purchase from ebay. I’Ve always had my eye out for this watch right drum roll. Please! Here we go [ Music, ] really curious. I don’t know much about this.
Watch um in terms of its size looks promising. Oh my god. It’S it’s! Oh it’s very period correct! Look at that!
Wow! That’S a nice strap! Actually it looks nice um. I think it’s aftermarket yeah. We got pushes for the settings.
Let’S, let’s have a look closer. Look, it’s a very kind of faux enamel look but gorgeous blacked out hands this beautiful moon phase there. I, like that layered look there with the brush and then the beveling really cool all right. Let’S take it back to studio so there it is. Oh gorgeous, look at that absolute pure class, but kippers knickers.
What can i say um? So? How did this watch come about and where does it uh fit in terms of the history of seiko around this time? Let’S take a look during the 1980s seiko was pushing quartz technology to the highest limits. In 1983, they introduced the world’s first analog quartz chronograph, with the 7a28 movement which went on to become even more famous, with over 40 variations, ultimately being worn by james bond and even a version specially issued to raf pilots.
That year, they experimented with combining analog and digital in a diver before anyone else, and we all know how successful that went with the h558 aka the arnie. This was a crazy period where seiko was literally trying to put anything and everything on your wrist decades before so-called smart watches, from the first risktop televisions to the first computer and remember the drum machine seiko, i scored off ebay in a very early video, perfect image Queue really doubles. Look i haven’t time for these adolescent antics, but not just high tech for land also for conquering oceans with some of the first digital depth gauges and, let’s not forget, working with the most legendary car designer of all time. George giugiaro, with the speedmaster range as discussed over a year ago in a specially dedicated video and the personal choice of air and cena himself, no less. These cutting-edge watches for the time permeated into pop culture, stardom like the quirky technology.
In the memo recorder from the movie ghostbusters – and there was countless other examples – so please share your favorites in the comments it seemed there was nothing seiko could not do so. What about more, classical complications? The 80s was very much an era where people were obsessed with technology. Sega was undoubtedly at the forefront of this crest of uh of the wave so to speak. It was always bold enough to try new things.
It had the know-how and the capability, the infrastructure, the the mastery of all these different forms of horological technology. To do it, nobody really else had that from mechanical to solar to lcd, quarts, etc, etc. Combining them – and you know it was a fascinating time. What happened was there was a kind of pushback. There was a more of an increased demand for more traditional watches and we saw the moon phase trend really coming back.
There was a kind of resurgence, but naturally seiko wanted the slice of that pie too. So that’s how this particular watch was born at 34, millimeters in diameter and only 6.6 millimeters tall. It’S almost the exact same scale as my old adam rpgay, equivalent i used to own and for those unaware. Yes, men did wear watches this small.
The ultra slender proportions are thanks to the super thin quartz 7f39 caliber, which makes it supremely cuff friendly, gracefully, comfortable and uber light to wear the tri-compact’s arrangement with the four sub-dials is similar to the quantiam perpetual. Only the quintessential bosom cut moon phase is at the 12 and not the six. Unusually. There are two crowns equidistantly placed at the three and nine. However, while a little peculiar, they do give a pleasing sense of balance to the watch.
That is only broken by the extra little micro pusher for advancing the moon phase hidden at the two o’clock, but it must be said. Setting this complex watch is extremely easy, as well as both crowns being nicely recessed. A bonus of these more subtle crowns is that it can be worn on either left or right wrist effortlessly. The dial does a good job of mimicking the enamel style of classical clock and pocket watches, along with the 1920s style printed italic diminutive numerals. That are nicely not cut off by the high polished gold framed subdials.
There’S a lot of detail here and i’m only just getting started. The delicate leaf style hands are all painted to resemble the thermal bluing of hands. We see in higher end watchmaking the 12 applied gold circular hour markers at the very periphery of the dial. Add a nice little level of detail and refinement that work well with the alluring symmetry of the dial layout as a whole. The actual moon phase itself is a vivid high polished gold, along with accompanying stars that contrasts exquisitely against the royal blue night sky.
One of the most interesting aspects of this watch is, without a shadow of doubt, the case design. It’S very art deco in its feel and look, but at the same time it utilizes the main strength of the seven f-39 caliber aside from its uh wide variety of complications, and that is how small and compact uh it is. So the subsequent versions. Um there was a whole plethora available were a lot more sporty bigger, more kind of modern minimalist. If you will, i think this is the one to own.
In my opinion, i think it’s the most classical uh it’s the most tastefully designed in my opinion, obviously is taste, it’s always in the eye of the beholder, but i mean just look at it. It’S the perfect dress watch. The case is rather reminiscent of the iconic saab 033. Did this actually inspire the saab’s stepped lugs? Who knows?
Another design decision, which is unusual, is to have the bezel in a coin edge, and this was more common in the 1930s, like the han heart timing bezels, for example, or the oris moon phase, i also used to own. However, unlike those watches, we see it, the gold plated high polish finish contrasting the subdued brushed silver steel sections of the lugs and sides making this a subtle but effective use of two-tone and nothing is as indicative of the 1980s as two-tone. One thing to note about gold plating of this era is that it’s a lot more generously applied we’re talking one to two microns thick compared to the 0.5. We typically see today and the result is well it’s a lot more long-lasting.
It doesn’t wear off this one looks i mean i can’t see any of the gold plating were worn off at all, so yeah and i’ve experienced this again many times with more vintage gold-plated seikos. They just don’t make them like this anymore and it’s a simple explanation of cutting costs. The tone of the gold is just right, not too rich and therefore cheap, looking, but simultaneously gold enough to differentiate it from the plane steel nicely. The 7f-39 was an amazing, caliber and highly overlooked, somewhat lost in the many world firsts and astonishing achievements. Seiko was consistently unleashing onto the world.
It was introduced with this model in 1986 and ran for several decades. It’S a wonderfully useful movement that gives us not only the time moon phase date and day, but a 24 hour sub dial at the 9, which can also be independently adjusted to track a second time zone in 24 hours, making it basically as useful as a gmt. So just fantastically useful, especially that second time zone now i did a bit of research there’s a website. I forget off the top of my head, but you type in the serial number and it will give you a date of production very, very useful if you’re hunting for vintage sakos, so according to that this was produced in 1989. So quite a late model explains its excellent condition yet definitely hard lex, but yeah outstanding condition for its age in terms of negatives.
I do wish it didn’t. Have the ticking seconds to remind you, it’s cause, but you’ve got to remember. Quartz was cutting edge and something to be proud of back then, and not scoffed at like it is today. Hence why it’s also printed on the dial, but it’s not a big deal. I love the grab-and-go ease of quartz.
It was part of the reason why i settled on my particular santos: i’m mainly a sports and tool watch kind of guy, so i actually prefer it to be quartz the aftermarket cheap, strap it came on. While it does look. The part feels appallingly low quality and i will be upgrading it to something more refined and luxurious. The snapback case gives a low water resistance, but being a dress watch not the end of the world. The biggest downfall, however, has got to be the size for those with genuinely large wrists.
It will seem extremely small, but those like me with more modest wrists. It gives a very period correct fit which also assists it looking much more expensive than it actually is. So there you have it the seiko scrooged watch, that’s the official nickname now and i think this is a definite sweet spot and, to a wider extent, digital watches as well, so seiko courts definitely worth investigating and looking into because i mean this was from a time When sega was putting everything on the wrist and they were the masters of of watchmaking, i mean the undisputed heavyweights to think this is all proprietary made at such an accessible price, but so useful and usable just fantastic stuff. Now will i keep it? No, i bought this to investigate, to learn and to make this video i’m going to.
Actually, i think, i’m going to sell it and put the funds towards the next episode. I think that will be a clever way of of you know: releasing the funds and then taking that 215, seeing what else i can find and documenting and sharing it with you guys, if you guys uh, have any tips or recommendations or particular genres areas, or i Don’T know brands you want me to investigate at this price range. Do let me know in the comments, so please like this video, if you enjoy these little treasure hunts and finding these lost gems and indisputable bargains. Thank you very very much for watching and i will catch you in the next one: okay, ciao [, Music, ]
Bir önceki yazımız olan 5 things you need to know before you buy your first automatic watch. başlıklı makalemizde Music hakkında bilgiler verilmektedir.